Adafruit Bluefruit EZ-Key

Last year, my friend Mike tipped me off to a new Bluetooth product that had been released by Adafruit. The tiny EZ-Key device…

http://www.adafruit.com/products/1535

…was a $19.95 “ready to go” switches-to-Bluetooth board. All you had to do was feed it power (3V-16V) and then hook switches (say, joysticks or arcade buttons) to the 12 input pins and ground and you were set. Power it up, hold down the pair button for a few moments, and let it connect to your computer. After that, any press of those switches would send a preprogrammed character. By default, they were:

  • #0 – Up Arrow
  • #1 – Down Arrow
  • #2 – Left Arrow
  • #3 – Right Arrow
  • #4 – Return
  • #5 – Space
  • #6 – the number ‘1’
  • #7 – the number ‘2’
  • #8 – lowercase ‘w’
  • #9 – lowercase ‘a’
  • #10 – lowercase ‘s’
  • #11 – lowercase ‘d’

You can find a full tutorial here:

http://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-bluefruit-ez-key-diy-bluetooth-hid-keyboard/overview

And the online user manual (with pinouts, wiring examples, etc.) here:

http://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-bluefruit-ez-key-diy-bluetooth-hid-keyboard/user-manual

If the default keys are not good for you, the device can be reprogrammed to send a different single character when a switch is pressed. This seems to involve using an adapter to hook the EZ-Key’s TX/RX pins to the PC, then running a special program that sends sequences to the EZ-Key to remap it.

The device can also be remapped over Bluetooth, which sounds like an easier option since you probably have Bluetooth (if you are using a Bluetooth adapter like this) and probably don’t have a TTL-to-Serial USB adapter. (Okay, some of you reading this probably do, but I don’t…) ((Actually, maybe I do. That may be the thing I use to program BASIC Stamps, though I didn’t know that at the time I bought it.)) (((But I digress…)))

For simple projects, the EZ-Key and a power supply is all you would need, provided whatever you are hooking to (like the MAME emulator) uses simple key presses. One emulator I have on my Mac uses the CTRL key for the FIRE button, so I would at the very least have to remap the EZ-Key to send a CTRL press.

For things like the iCade, which uses dual keypresses (one key for “press button down” and another for “release button”), this will not work. The EZ-Key only does single key presses.

Fortunately, the EZ-Key can also act as a Bluetooth gateway. You can hook it up to a serial port on an Arduino (or Teensy, or anything else with a UART) and write data to it at 9600 baud. This data is either sent out as a simple key down/key up press, or you can do more advanced things like send modifier keys (CTR+ALT+DEL) or even mouse movement and button clicks.

Using four wires, I connected an Arduino up to the EZ-Key:

Arduino hooked to EZ-Key
Arduino hooked to EZ-Key

I was using the Software Serial Arduino library to turn pins 10 and 11 in to TX and RX:

http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SoftwareSerial

This let me open the EZ-Key just like I would open the console and read/write data to it:


#define RX_PIN         10
#define TX_PIN         11

// Initialize the Software Serial port.
SoftwareSerial EZKey(RX_PIN, TX_PIN); // RX, TX

// We talk to the EZ-Key at 9600 baud.
EZKey.begin(9600);

EZKey.write('x'); // send 'x'

It would be very easy to make a sketch that read data through the Arduino serial console port, and sent that out via Bluetooth:


#include <SoftwareSerial.h>

#define RX_PIN         10
#define TX_PIN         11

// Initialize the Software Serial port.
SoftwareSerial EZKey(RX_PIN, TX_PIN); // RX, TX

void setup()
{
Serial.begin(9600);

// We talk to the EZ-Key at 9600 baud.
EZKey.begin(9600);
}

void loop()
{
char ch;

// If data is available from the USB serial console...
while(Serial.available()>0)
{
// Read a character from the Serial console.
ch = Serial.read();

// If nothing was read, it returns -1...
if (ch>=0)
{
// Write that character out to the EZKey via UART.
EZKey.write(ch);
// Echo back to the serial console.
Serial.write(ch);
}
}
}

I paired the EZ-Key to my iPad, then opened the Serial Monitor on the Arduino IDE and was able to type things there and see them show up on the iPad (inside of Notepad, or anything else that accepted keyboard input).

The next step, for me, will be to integrate EZ-Key support in my iCade interface. Right now, I support reading digital inputs and writing out iCade commands as USB keyboard presses. With just a few lines of code, I should be able to expand this to use the EZ-Key and support Bluetooth as well.

Eventually, I will roll this in to my experimental USB Host Shield version, so it can also read USB joysticks (rather than just digital input switches) and output them as iCade USB keyboard or Bluetooth messages.

My EZ-Key sample program is now on GitHub:

https://github.com/allenhuffman/EZKeyTest

Stay tuned…

Simple scrolling LED Sign for NeoPixel (WS2811) or LPN8806

  • 2014/03/16 Update: The source code to this is now on GitHub. Check the Arduino link at the top of each page of this site.

Yesterday evening, I coded up a simple scrolling message sign that uses addressable LED strips like the Adafruit NeoPixels (WS2811) or LPN8806. The code I created is built for NeoPixels, since those were the ones I had access to, but it would be trivial to make it work with the Adafruit LPN8806 library. Future versions will make this simpler.

First, let’s talk about LED signs.

The BetaBrite is a commercially available scrolling message sign that’s been around for ages. I bought one at SAM’S CLUB back in the late 1990s. The BetaBrite that I have uses an 80×7 array of LEDs. This is what I will be trying to replicate.

If you shop around (ahem, e-Bay), you can find 1 meter long WS2811 LED strips with 60 RGB LEDs for around $8-$9. If you had seven of those, you could make a 60×7 LED sign. It wouldn’t be able to show as many characters at the same time as a BetaBrite does, but it would be good enough to experiment with. (There are strips with 144 pixels per meter, but they are very expensive. And, when you get past 500 or so LEDs, you start running out of memory on the Arduino. I plan to fix this with some updates to the LED library, eventually.)

Consider this wonderful drawing as I discuss a few possible ways to present a sign made out of LED strips:

LED Sign ideas

A. At the top is an example of one of these LED strips with LED number 0 to “n”. One end hooks to the Arduino and power, and the other end can be used to daisy chain multiple strips together. The first LED will be 0, and they count up to the end of the last strip. If you have three 60 LED strips, you have LEDs 0 to 179. The green arrow shows the direction of the data (the LEDs count up in that direction).

B. Next is an example of how you might arrange multiple strips so they could make up an LED sign. Each strip is shown running left-to-right, so at the end of the first strip the cables go all the way back to the left to connect to the start of the next strip. Wiring them like this makes it real easy to do things with. Notice that the green arrow runs left-to-right on each row.

C. However, it would be much much easier to just connect them like this, without all the extra wires running around. But, this causes every other row to run in the opposite direction (again, see the green arrows). This means the software has to be smart enough to know how to reverse drawing the pixels for every other row.

ALSO, based on where you decide to make LED 0, that changes everything. In these drawings, we are hooking the Arduino up at the top left. But, if it was easier to hook up at the bottom right, the entire numbering system would be backwards.

I decided to write a simple LED message program that could handle all of this. It’s not pretty, but it (maybe) works. I configure it with the number of LEDs in use, and how many are in each row, then I set where the start pixel is (TOPLEFT, TOPRIGHT, BOTTOMLEFT or BOTTOMRIGHT). I support running the rows STRAIGHT (A) or ZIGZAG (B). It can even do something fun…

D. This is the only thing I have actually done. I had two 1 meter strips, so I decided to spiral them with 20 LEDs in each spiral before the next row starts. These 120 LEDs can be split up in my program as six rows of 20 LEDs each, and then (with a small enough font), a message can rotate around it.

If you’d like to try out my code, I have posted it to GitHub:

https://github.com/allenhuffman/LEDSign

I have only tested it in the D configuration, but I have done some debug prints that make me think it should be handling all the other variations. Until I have access to more LED strips, I won’t know for sure.

Anyone want to try it out and let me know how it works for you?

Poor documentation, and the code could be cleaned up and optimized quite a bit. Perhaps I will have that done when I reach version 1.0.

Here’s a video of my first working version:

Cheap Arduino Wiznet 5100 ethernet shield

e-Bay seller kbellenterprises has a Wiznet 5100 ethernet shield for the Arduino for just $11.49 with free shipping. And, it ships from Missouri (fast). I have not used this shield, but it’s a great price if it works:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiznet-W5100-Ethernet-Shield-for-Arduino-MicroSD-UNO-MEGA2560-FAST-US-SHIP-/171264625782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e02acc76

This seller also has various Arduino clones (a Leonardo clone for $12.75 and a Leonardo mini for $9.99) with free shipping as well.

Arduino WS2811 scrolling message sign

I have two 1m 60 LED WS2811 strips, and expect to receive several more in coming weeks from Chinese suppliers. Once I have seven of them, I plan to use them as a scrolling message sign.

However, with two 1m strips (120 LEDs total), you can spiral them loosely (not tight enough to break the strip) and end up with six rows… Sorta. And, with a quick Arduino sketch (making use of some TVout fonts)… You can create a mini-circular scrolling message sign.

Here is “HELLO WORLD”:

Just for fun…

RGB addressable LEDs (WS2811, LPD8806)

Last year, I was involved with a large Halloween project that involved upgrading the lighting in a haunted house attraction to DMX controlled RGB LEDs. We spent many, many late hours running 12V power through the entire attraction to power all the lights, and Ethernet cable to carry the DMX (RS485) control signal. The end result was the ability to set the lights to any color without having to change bulbs.

Changing the bulbs would have been much easier.

A year before this project, the manager there had introduced me to HolidayCoro.com. This site resells LED lighting mostly for Christmas light displays. (The manager had one of those synchronized Christmas light displays at his house and he was in the process of converting the entire setup to RGB LEDs as well, which he did in 2013.)

Like many things here, one thing seems to lead to another, and I want to share some information in “addressable RGB LED lights.”

Adafruit.com sells a number of RGB LEDs, including their Neo Pixels which allow each light to be individually controlled. I first learned of this type of technology in 2010 when some GE Color Effect G-35 Christmas lights were introduced and quickly hacked so they could be controlled by an external computer. In 2010, this was cutting edge, but today, there are several off-the-shelf ways to do this.

An Arduino controls a strip of 32 LPD8806 RGB LEDs.
An Arduino controls a strip of 32 LPD8806 RGB LEDs.

There are two main LED chipsets I see being used:

  • WS2811 – Adafruit calls these Neo Pixels, and the lights run in series and are addressed over a one wire connection (power, ground, data) using a special protocol. The library for Arduino to do this is very clever and involves specific assembly language timing to toggle the data line at the proper frequency to send the data.
  • LPD8806 – this version uses a two-wire interface (SPI protocol) to talk to the lights (power, ground, clock and data). These lights are far easier to address and less timing sensitive.

At Adafruit, a string of 60 Neo Pixels (1 meter) runs $24.95. You can find similar strips (same chipset, same number of lights) on e-Bay shipped from China for around $18, or bid on auctions and get them for less than $10 each.

At Adafruit, the LPD8806 strips of 32 LEDs (1 meter) run $29.95. A coworker at my day job just bought one of these, which is where I first saw them in person.  On e-Bay, you can find these for $20 on e-Bay with free shipping from China. To find versions with 52 lights per meter (to get light density similar to the WS2811 version), the cost is around $30.

If you want to experiment with the LPD8806 lights without spending a ton of money or waiting weeks for a shipment from China, check out this seller on e-Baykbellenterprises is located in Missouri and will sell a 1-foot strip of LPD8806 lights for $12.99 (with free shipping). They also sell Arduino clones, power supplies and other items at near-China prices (you can get an UNO clone for around $10). You can get one of their strips and hook it up to an Arduino with four wires and safely power the 32 LEDs. (They say you should be able to power up to 2 feet off an Arduino’s 5V 500ma output. More lights than that requires an external power supply.)

As you can see, the LPD8806 lights are about 3 times the cost of the WS2811. The LPD8806 lights are “smarter” (in a way) and easier to work with, without needing specific timing code like the WS2811 require.

For casual play, both work the same way — in fact, Adafruit has posted libraries for each type of light and they both use the same API. You simply set some pixel colors (RGB) and then display them:

strip.begin();

// Set the first 10 LEDs...
for (i=0; i<10; i++)
{
strip.setPixelColor(i, strip.Color(127,0,0));
}
strip.show();

There are some limitations to using these lights on an Arduino. First, the libraries require a buffer of 3-bytes for each LED on the strip  (one byte for red, green and blue). An Arduino with only 2K of RAM can only handle 500 or so lights (more or less, depending on how much RAM your sketch uses, and any libraries you use). This severely limits how useful this is for anything other than just blinking a small strip of lights. My old 1990s BetaBrite LED sign, for instance, is made up of 80×7 LEDs (560) so I couldn’t replicate that using an Arduino and these types of lights using the standard library. More on this later…

There are dedicated controllers (Look for the T1000S, around $43 with free USA shipping, or less from China) that can display light sequences on up 2048 LEDs from an SD memory card. You don’t get any computer control this way (all sequences are made ahead of time using special Windows software), but this would be a much better way to drive a large amount of lights than trying to do it with an Arduino.

But what if one really wanted to use a 2K Arduino? Could you actually make a scrolling LED sign similar to a BetaBrite?

Perhaps.

In coming weeks, I will be sharing some embedded programming tricks that might allow controlling far more than 500 or so LEDs from an Arduino.

Check back…

Invaders09

In 1994, I published a Space Invaders style game for the Radio Shack Color Computer 3. Although there had been many such games for the CoCo since the first model was released in 1980, mine may have been the only version ever released to run on the OS-9 operating system.

Years later, Jamie Cho ported my game from 6809 assembly code to PowerPC Macintosh… Unfortunately, that old app won’t run on modern Intel Macs.

As luck would have it, I saw the name Jamie Cho pop up on the CoCo mailing list the other day and sure enough, it was the same one! Now I have an updated version of the app that runs on modern Intel Macs.

Thank you, Jamie!

2014 Halloween project update

I have been sent a few things I will be using to make a prototype for the Halloween project. The main features will be playing audio on demand, and switching lights (or other 120V items) on and off in time to the audio. Here are the items I will be evaluating:

  • MP3 Shield ($19.99) from CutiDigi.com. This shield has its own flash storage and lets you load MP3 files over from SD memory cards or USB thumb drives. In addition to control buttons on the shield itself (vol+/-, pref, next, play), it also has buttons to start up the copy operation and put the unit to sleep. There is a 1/8″ headphone style jack for getting audio out. It is controlled via serial (tx/rx) and can be made to play a specific track number off the memory.
  • Relay Shield ($7.59) from e-Bay seller happyvalley009. This shield has four relays that can handle 120V up to 3amps, which is a small amount but enough for our needs. It is dangerous to run 120V in to a shield like this, as a short could really cause some problems. A better solution might be to use a separate relay board ($8.49 with Amazon Prime shipping) that is controlled without being attached to the Arduino itself. That would let it be physically separate and still be controlled the same way (and, this one can handle more amperage).

As soon as my funding source returns from vacation, we will order more items and begin working on a prototype.

Pac-Man source code now on GitHub

For those who wish to follow along with my Pac-Man project without having to copy/paste source code from these articles, I have posted my current work-in-progress source (which includes many changes I have not discussed, yet).

https://github.com/allenhuffman/PacMan

I have broken the program up in to multiple files, but since this makes quite a mess in the IDE, I am probably going to combine all the bitmaps in to one file instead of separate ones.

If you want to play with it, you can modify the Joystick code to read whatever you have for input (buttons, analog joystick, whatever) and at least move the Pac-Man around the screen. There is no ghost collision detection, no scoring, and no dot handling yet… But it’s a fun demo.

Arduino ethernet for $10

Here is a heck of a deal. This Arduino Ethernet Shield uses the WizPro 5100 like the official Arduino shield:

http://www.icstation.com/product_info.php?products_id=1494#.UxXX3TK9KSM

If this $10 shield works the same, it is a very cheap way to get internet connectivity out of an Arduino. If you get one, let me know how it works for you.

The shield I used for my Ethernet experiments was made by Sainsmart and it runs about $20:

http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-ethernet-shield-w5100-for-arduino.html

And for those who don’t want to wait for mail order (from China?), you can get a $20 Seeed ethernet shield at your local Radio Shack:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=13356964

Pretty cool.